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Bonuan bangús (milkfish coming from ponds cultivated in the coastal barrio of Bonuan in Dagupan City) has quite a legendary status for Pangasinenses, and such worship is entirely deserving. No other bangús, whether cultivated in Pangasinan or elsewhere, tastes like it.

True to its name, the flesh is milky and sweetish, the fat in the belly inducing nirvana. There are fewer bones and those pesky thread-like spines, and there is never a fishy hint in taste. Like eating pure cream in the form of soft fish flesh.

Of course it follows that the innards of the bangús are as milky and as fresh-tasting as well. Pangasinenses and Ilocanos have a habit of flavoring soups (including tinóla) with bagóong (salted, fermented anchovies). In a sinigáng, the bangús innards take the place of the bagóong, and you have a very flavorful, quite tasty soup. Even insęlar ya oráng (sinigang na hipon or shrimp in soured soup) uses bangús innards for flavor.

Restaurants along the beaches in Dagupan City cook sinigáng this way, particularly the famous Matutina chain of Pangasinan seafood casual dining.

To cook, fresh Bonuan bangús is sliced and put in a simmering pot of water flavored with a peeled ginger the size of your thumb, chopped tomatoes, sliced onions, salt and the innards, and calamansi juice (optional). When the fish flesh has turned opaque, add some kamote tops and continue cooking till the leaves are tender. Do not overcook so the fat will not disintegrate (very important!).

May I just add a note that it is critical to use fresh bangús, preferably newly harvested, and cook straight from the wet market. Never use previously frozen fish. If you only have access to the latter, it may be prudent to discard the innards.