Insęlar a Bangús
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Bonuan bangús (milkfish coming from ponds cultivated in the coastal barrio of Bonuan in Dagupan City) has quite a legendary status for Pangasinenses, and such worship is entirely deserving. No other bangús, whether cultivated in Pangasinan or elsewhere, tastes like it.
True to its name, the flesh is milky and sweetish, the fat in the belly inducing nirvana. There are fewer bones and those pesky thread-like spines, and there is never a fishy hint in taste. Like eating pure cream in the form of soft fish flesh.
Of course it follows that the innards of the bangús are as milky and as fresh-tasting as well. Pangasinenses and Ilocanos have a habit of flavoring soups (including tinóla) with bagóong (salted, fermented anchovies). In a sinigáng, the bangús innards take the place of the bagóong, and you have a very flavorful, quite tasty soup. Even insęlar ya oráng (sinigang na hipon or shrimp in soured soup) uses bangús innards for flavor.
Restaurants along the beaches in Dagupan City cook sinigáng this way, particularly the famous Matutina chain of Pangasinan seafood casual dining.
To cook, fresh Bonuan bangús is sliced and put in a simmering pot of water flavored with a peeled ginger the size of your thumb, chopped tomatoes, sliced onions, salt and the innards, and calamansi juice (optional). When the fish flesh has turned opaque, add some kamote tops and continue cooking till the leaves are tender. Do not overcook so the fat will not disintegrate (very important!).
May I just add a note that it is critical to use fresh bangús, preferably newly harvested, and cook straight from the wet market. Never use previously frozen fish. If you only have access to the latter, it may be prudent to discard the innards.
Filed under Food by The Pangasinan Blog.
Lingayen City? About time Part II
By Mita Q. Sison-Duque
Source: 
April 4-10, 2006 issue
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VEERING toward the right at the back is the orientally architectured Princess Urduja House, the Governor’s residence, one of the few buildings in the area at one time. Named after the legendary woman warrior who once was said to rule Pangasinan, it was built 50 years ago.
On the left on the same eyelevel, one could see behind the Capitol, WWII tank and a fighter plane much simpler than today’s F-A18 Hornet or the F22A Raptor, but it did fight in a war. After the Sison Auditorium is a clump of buildings, the Pangasinan State University. An interesting area is the expanse of the Narciso Ramos Sports Complex with running fields and Olympics size pools, and an outdoor grandstand where spectators can watch simultaneous sports events, given the chance, in national sports competition.
Named after Narciso Ramos, distinguished diplomat, five-time congressman of the 5th District, the organizer with Joaquin Elizalde of the First Philippine Embassy in Washington, D.C., he is also the father of President Ramos and Senator Shahani. A stone’s throw away is Maniboc where the famous Lingayen ‘bagoong’ or anchovies is cured in rows of clay jars lined behind ‘bagoong’ magnates’ nice homes. These same anchovies are exported to all pars of the world where Filipinos are found. In the same neighborhood, coconut candies called ‘bucayo’ are gathered from coconut palms facing the sea and cooked to the confectioning specialty food indigenous to Lingayen like ‘tulapo’ predating the Lapid chicharon, and the Spanish-legacy recipe of masa rich ‘tameles’ help the local economy. These staples are sought after by native Lingayen folks and often times find their way to their homes across oceans hand carried like precious precious nuggets of gold having had survived the scrutiny of immigration officials.
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Filed under Tourism, Municipalities, Cities, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
Lingayen City? About time Part I
By Mita Q. Sison-Duque
Source:
April 4-10, 2006 issue
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TIME holds parallel perspectives. Years ago when we first brought our children home from Washington, D.C., an incident at that time stands out in memory. A little boy of 5 or 6, one of twin boys had this to say about a well-loved old hometown.
"Mom," he said as we drove our children around Lingayen the very first time. "Is this the Lingayen of all your stories?" "One and the same, son." "This one?" "We’re here!" "The one you said had all these heroes walking the streets? I don’t see any…" "At some time in the past, yes, they did. Not your superheroes…" "Oh…" his voice trailing off a little disappointed. "Real heroes found in historic books."
Still unimpressed, he asked more. "The one you said is… beautiful?" he questioned as he looked around when my husband drove the length of the boulevard turning the bend behind the Capitol. Upon seeing the expanse of the beach, he agreed. "The beach is there, all right." "It’s beautiful, isn’t it?" Silence. "Well… Mom…" he answered after some pause… "I guess so, if you love it." Minutes later, overheard as he sat scrounged beside his twin brother and his siblings… "Looks a rotten egg to me…" he said in a whisper.
"Rotten egg" in the developing vocabulary of a 6-year-old means undeveloped. And time marched on, ready or not. During the spurt of time it took to develop a boy into manhood, symbolically and in parallels, was the time it took a town to evolve into a city-worth town.
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Filed under Tourism, Municipalities, Cities, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
Inkaldít / Patópat
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This is a traditional Pangasinan kánen (kakanin, rice pudding), made by cooking together glutinous rice, gata or coconut cream and sinákob (panutsa, molasses cakes) or brown sugar. Inkaldít to Pangasinenses residing in the central part of the province, patopát to the outlying areas with Ilocano influences. It is much like the Tagalog bíko, the difference is that the partially cooked rice is put inside onós - young coconut leaves stripped of its thin backbone or tingting - woven into fat rectangles, then steamed.
Like the Visayan pusô, too, although bigger, and this is sweet, and eaten by itself, for a late breakfast, perhaps, or mid-morning snacks.
The woven coconut leaf casing makes this delicacy handy, although it's a bit sticky (which gives good reason for indulging in the childish joy of licking fingers), and preserves it well. Unlike bíko, latík, or any other "naked" kakanin spread on a biláo (woven bamboo winnowing tray), inkaldít can last up to several days, and can be stored in the refrigerator, just needing some steaming to soften it up again.
Paradoxically, though, however pretty the lattice design the casing imparts on the rice, the "skin" makes it hard to get to the sweet, sticky treat inside. You would need a sharp knife to cut the leaves, and by the time you've realized that you've already smeared your fingers with the brown syrup seeping out of the weave, and you likewise smear the knife, making it slick-difficult to handle. But you don't want to wash your hands. You want to lick them. Go on, nobody's looking. But there's still the slippery knife. You lick it, too, the handle, the blade, and so you cut your tongue…
Next time remember to have a knife ready, and cut in the middle through the skin and onto the rice. You pull back the cut coconut leaves, proceed with dainty, tiny bites until the case is empty, consuming one of the two halves in three bites before proceeding to the second half. Three rectangles are sold knotted together, which logically tells you that all three means one serving for one person, and so you're welcome to eat them all. Just be sure not to eat anything else for the rest of the day.
When the glutinous rice used is newly-harvested, inkaldít is pure, soft, gooey bliss (so you understand how it can be eaten so fast). Some, though, mix in ordinary rice, making the inkaldít mabató (literally, "stony," or interspersed with hard grains, used to refer to impure grains and legumes). So you have to know from whom you're buying it, although in hard times that is no guarantee for really soft inkaldít made entirely of ansák-ket.
So if only I'm an expert weaver, I'll make some inkaldít myself. But until I learn the ropes, I just have to buy from trusted makers around harvest time up until about July, when planting time starts, and signals the time of gáwat (literally "to reach," but also used to refer to hard times).
Filed under Food by The Pangasinan Blog.
Villanelle 17: INRI(Iesus Nazarenus Rex Iudaeorum)
nen Santiago Villafania 
nen inatey so binin salita
binmilonget so sansinakuban
atoor so parles da’y propita
inmagos sankablian ya dala
naorasan ira’y karumsisan
nen inatey so binin salita
nilaknaban na ilem so talba
kauyos na bilay ed kabalgan
atoor so parles da’y propita
ambelat so agew a tinmangoa
nen atiguay so komaduan Adan
nen inatey so binin salita
nalgep ed odiem so inkapalsa
bangta maligsa ira’y duksaan
atoor so parles da’y propita
dia’d ngoro’y pasak iran maruksa
agaoa’y oala ed kasulatan
nen inatey so binin salita
atoor so parles da’y propita
Filed under Language, Literature, Poem, Poetry by The Pangasinan Blog.
Historical trivia about Santa Barbara
by Fred Natividad
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On November 13, 1899, Santa Barbara had a five-hour brush with history long before 1945 when General Douglas Macarthur set up his first land command post in Santa Barbara after his Lingayen Gulf landings.
The story of this earlier brush with history is based on a reading of a diary of Telesforo Perez Carrasco, a junior officer in General Aguinaldo's army. The diary was translated from Spanish and published in English in 1986 in Manila by the noted Filipino writer, Nick Joaquin. Mr. Joaquin appears to be a Carrasco descendant.
Back in 1899 the United States of America, then a new emerging power, decided to try its hand in colonialism. It refused to leave the Philippines after its navy demolished the Spanish fleet on Manila Bay. Filipinos, thru their leader, General Aguinaldo, did not foresee this, thinking that America was their ally in driving the Spaniards out. Not surprisingly,
Filipinos were incensed and dared the might of a well trained, sophisticated (for its time) American army.
Enter the story of Telesforo Perez Carrasco as can be gleaned from Nick Joaquin's translation of Carrasco's diary. A Spaniard, Carrasco was a non-com in the Spanish army. Fleeing from a love affair he volunteered for service in the Philippines where he married instead a Filipino girl in Tanauan, Batangas. On June 1, 1899, eight years after he arrived in the Philippines, he was captured by Filipino revolutionary troops in Bulacan.
Carrasco not only waived repatriation to Spain but he even joined General Aguilnaldo's peasant troops, who, after defeating the Spaniards, were now facing a new enemy, the United States of America. Eventually, among various assignments and missions, Carrasco became a part of Aguinaldo's rear guard at Tirad Pass. There he witnessed the death of his commander, General Gregorio del Pilar, who was felled by an American sniper.
Rewinding to Santa Barbara's brush with history…
… It was November 12, 1899. The US army has been relentlessly chasing General Aguinaldo who fled from Bulacan to Pangasinan. From probably Calasiao or Dagupan he headed to Binalonan. Before Binalonan is Manaoag where Lieutenant Carrasco was sent to observe enemy movements.
He was about to leave Manaoag when he was informed that Americans were coming from the direction of Binalonan! He quickly went with his troops into the opposite direction to warn General Aguinaldo's party. Thus warned, everybody turned back.
They arrived at Santa Barbara at 1:00 a.m. of the 13th. After about five hours they left for Pozorrubio. There is an anecdote about this supposed flight to Pozorrubio but that's another story from a Santa Barbara writer and historian, Resty Basa of Banaoang.
So there it is for Santa Barbarans to be proud of: the hometown's brush with history was General Emilio Aguinaldo's stopover for a mere five hours!
Filed under Tourism, Municipalities, History, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
‘Tangay-tangay ed Pozorrubio'
By Restituto C. Basa
Source:
November 5-11, 2003 issue
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THERE is a phrase in the Pangasinan lingo which says ‘tangay-tangay ed Pozorrubio’.
This may be rendered in English, literally thus: looking upwards in Pozorrubio.
Over the years, the phrase has acquired a new meaning which is a far cry from the literal interpretation.
Its new connotation refers to a person whether he be in Pozorrubio or anywhere else, who goes about aimlessly. One who moves about seemingly without a sense of direction, or without an apparent purpose.
To dig into the origin of the saying, I asked my friend Mel Valenzuela Jovellanos, how the phrase came about.
I consider Mel an authority on the subject. Mel is supposed to be a Dagupeño. His grandfather, a great Dagupeño, was Don Toribio Jovellanos, the first presidente municipal of Dagupan (1900) under American colonial rule.
His father, Don Jose Villamil Jovellanos, was town mayor of Dagupan for two terms (1919-1925). His father, an accomplished writer in Pangasinan language (he was also a good writer in Spanish and English) erected the Rizal monument in the town plaza of Dagupan during his watch as town mayor.
By every sensible reason, Mel should have been born in Dagupan. It was an aberration of history that he was born in Pozorrubio. So now he’s Pozorrubio’s pride to the envy of Dagupan.
To be fair, his mother Leonor Magno Valenzuela, was born in Pozorrubio. And Mel belongs to the elite of both Dagupan and Pozorrubio.
In Dagupan, he belongs to the famous Fercolla clan. In Pozorrubio, he belongs to the ruling Magno clan.
So I asked Mel: How did the phrase ‘tangay-tangay ed Pozorrubio’ come about?
His explanation was this: During the Pacific war years (1941-1945), the United States Armed Forces of the Philippines in the Far East (USAFFE) commandeered all motor vehicles in civilian hands. The new term for commandeered is ‘sequestered’, courtesy of the Corazon C. Aquino rule.
The army commandeered all motor vehicles at the start of the war. These were used to ferry Filipino and American soldiers to Bataan. (Remember the USAFFE took its stand against the Japanese army invaders in Bataan in 1942.)
So the only vehicles that served the transport needs of the civilian populace were in government hands. And there were few of them that were in harness because there were no gasoline supplies to run them.
The buses that were in harness were fuelled by charcoal.
The most common vehicle for transport at the time was caromata, the bull cart and the bicycle.
Pangasinenses, who had to travel to Baguio during the war years, had to go to Pozorrubio. The only ride to Baguio from Pozorrubio was the government-owned Benguet Auto Line (BAL), a sister company of the Manila Railroad Company. Pozorrubio was the main terminal of the BAL bound for Baguio from Pangasinan.
Only a few BAL buses were in harness to serve the Pozorrubio-Baguio line.
So if a traveller bound for Baguio missed the last trip, he would be stranded in Pozorrubio. He would have to spend the night in the town plaza.
The alternative was ‘mantangay-tangay’ to search for homes of relatives, if there be any kinsmen of his who were residents of Pozorrubio.
He would have to look up to the houses in the town, perchance he may have a kinsman who could accommodate him for the night.
That was how the phrase ‘tangay-tangay ed Pozorrubio came about. So my friend Mel V. Jovellanos explained.
In case you don’t know it yet, Mel V. Jovellanos wrote the volume entitled A Pangasinan-English, English-Pangasinan Language Dictionary. It sold like hotcakes. But I did not buy my copy. Mel graciously gave it to me as a gift.
Filed under Tourism, Municipalities, History, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
Palitaw with Coconut Sauce
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Holy Week is termed Àmbęlat Àgęw (again, all e's pronounced gutturally) in Pangasinan. It literally means "heavy day/s." I believe the term has profound psychological effects, since Holy Week has a pervasive air in the province. Maybe it has much to do with people being still very conservative when it comes to religious observances. All the same, as a child I remember Holy Week being sultry, the heat weighing on everything, and aggravated by the fact that you have to maintain a serious face all throughout.
Coupled with the general weightiness of the entire atmosphere is the fact that Lent, despite the heat, is characterized by the consumption of ansak-kęt (malagkit, glutinous rice), which is heavier than ordinary rice (it lands like a dead weight in the stomach). I don't know why, but this has always been the case.
Maybe it has something to do with harvest time (I've been getting many calls lately, informing me that I can pick up my rice and glutinous rice ration), and the seasonality of the ingredients, mainly rootcrops. The standard partner with which ansak-kęt is cooked - coconuts - is available year-round, though.
Anyway, I'm very unconventional, but family traditions which have been observed since childhood have gained sacred status that are very difficult to uproot. And so once again, I will be cooking and eating ansak-kęt, in its many variants. In spite of the heat.
Our version of palitaw is syrupy, and so does away with the "dry" toppings of grated coconut, sugar and toasted sesame seeds. It uses the same thin wafers of glutinous rice dough which are cooked once they rise out of the boiling water (that's why they are called palitaw, which means "rises up" or "pops up"), which are then mixed into the sweet sauce.
To make, soak desired amount of glutinous rice in water overnight. Grind the following day (most wet and dry markets have grinders, usually near the coconut graters). Take small pieces one at a time, forming them into thin discs approximately 2 inches in diameter. Spread each disc onto a plate - never stack one on top of another.
Boil a pan of water. Drop several rice discs onto the boiling water. Take out with a ladle each disc that goes up from the bottom of the pan to the water surface and lay on another plate. Repeat with the rest of the discs.
Boil about two cups of water (or more, depending on the amount of palitaw) with half a cup of white sugar (again, amount depending on desired taste), some anise seeds and slivers of young coconut meat. Stir until thick, but still runny (sauce will thicken some more when the palitaw are added). Mix in the cooked palitaw, and cook to desired consistency of sauce. Can be served hot or cold.
Filed under Religion, Food by The Pangasinan Blog.
In the Philippines, a way of spending the Holy Week is through prayer, meditation and the traditional Visita Iglesias. It is a pilgrimage to various churches which people intend to pray the Stations of the Cross at each stop. The Stations of the Cross has 14 stations, each capturing the journey of Jesus Christ through the streets of Jerusalem to Golgotha. Ideally this would mean that there are about 14 churches to visit.
In case you are in Pangasinan, visit the following churches:
Pangasinan is sometimes synonymous to a pilgrimage to the miraculous Our Lady of Manaoag housed in the Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary Parish Church in Manaoag.
Next stop would be at the St. Hyacinth Parish Church in San Jacinto, then to the St. Thomas Aquinas Parish Church in Mangaldan.
A few kilometers away is the San Fabian Church. From San Fabian you could go to Dagupan via Bonuan Binloc. Near the junction going to the Bonuan Tondaligan Beach is the Annunciation of the Lord Parish in Bonuan Gueset. You could also visit the Simbaan Ya Bato (church made of stone), a small church beside it and within the compound. St. Gabriel the Archangel Church in Bonuan Boquig within the interior of Bonuan could also be visited.
At the heart of Dagupan City is the historic and newly renovated/ reconstructed St. John the Evangelist Cathedral (formerly known as the Old Cathedral).
Near it is the bigger St. John the Evangelist Parish Church (formerly known as the St. John the Evangelist Metropolitan Cathedral).
Calasiao is not just home to the famous and delectable Calasiao puto, it is also where you can find one of the oldest churches in the region, the Sts. Peter and Paul Parish Church. Although not a church, another famous pilgrimage site in Calasiao is the Senor Divino Tesoro, where a statue of crucified Jesus of Nazarene is enshrined.
From Calasiao, you could go to San Ildefonso Parish Church in Malasiqui,
St. Vincent Ferrer in Bayambang or St. Dominic Church in San Carlos City.
On the way to Western Pangasinan, pass by Our Lady of Purification Parish Church in Binmaley and the Epiphany of Our Lord Parish Church in Lingayen. Lingayen (soon to be a city?) is the province’s capital. It is also famous for its bagoong and patis (fish paste and sauce).
Although there are a lot of other notable churches along the way towards Alaminos City, I’ll just leave that your adventurous and devotional spirit.
Last stop could be at the St. Joseph Catherdal in Alaminos City. To culminate your day, stay at the one of the natural wonders of the world, The Hundred Islands.
Have a Blessed Holy Week!
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Filed under Religion, Churches, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
Pangasinan Resorts
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Author’s Note: This is not a complete list of resorts in Pangasinan. The resorts and their description included here are personal recommendations and opinions of the author. The author is not an affiliate of any of the featured resorts. This post is the author’s reply to a comment on Pangasinan Tourist Attractions.
 Hundred Islands in Lucap, Alaminos is undisputedly Pangasinan’s top vacation spot. The boat ride from Lucap to the island resorts is in itself a treat. The island hopping is such an enjoyable experience. The island facilities have vastly improved. I recommend stargazing by the shore at night. White sand, refreshing beach, shallow water and unadulterated nature! Bring food and necessities. For additional amenities, inquire at the main office at Lucap Island.
 A feel of Boracay, Puerto Del Sol is the resort to go to in Bolinao, Pangasinan. The resort is located at Barangay Ilog, Malino, Bolinao, Pangasinan. White sand beach, nice swimming pool, and other club facilities! It’s indeed a treat but could be a bit pricey. Check out the details at their website: http://www.puertodelsol.com.ph/
 Said to be a holistic resort, Villa Jireh is a place to visit in Uyong, Labrador, Pangasinan. It is a nice place to relax, soul search and while the time away. It houses the Shrine of the Miraculous Lady. Enjoy the swimming pool! To find out more: Visit www.villajireh.com or call 0063 (0)75 549-5261 to 64, Fax 0063 (0)75 549-5262.
 While in Dagupan City, stay at the Leisure Coast. I have always enjoyed the one-hectare Gef's Waterpark with its three- (3) storey slides, kiddie wading pool, lazy river, main pool and the wave pool (only the fourth of its kind in the whole country). The wave pool is a perfect substitute to the Bonuan beach, which is just 1-2 kilometers away from the resort. They offer WI-FI internet for guests via the Airborne Access Network and a 250 yards driving range for golf enthusiasts. Leisure Coast is located at Bonuan Binloc, Dagupan City, Pangasinan. Phone: (075) 523 9361 – 63, (075) 511 5301, (075) 511 5305, Fax: (075) 523 9362. Website: http://www.leisurecoast.com
 For me, there are two notable resorts in San Fabian; Sierra Vista Beach Resort and the San Fabian PTA Resort. Sierra Vista Beach Resort, located at Nibaliw West, San Fabian, Pangasinan has a cozy and private-like resort feel. It has a small pool (kiddie and adult pool) and is just beside the beach. For details call these telephone numbers: (+6375) 523-6843, (+6375) 522-3366.
 San Fabian PTA Resort is bigger and has a lot of rooms and accommodations. Do you want to feel like a president? Try out the presidential suite, which was made for former president Ferdinand Marcos and wife Imelda. It also has a small pool but has a spacious picnic ground and is very near the beach. It is located at Bolasi, San Fabian (about 10 minutes from the main town). Tel. Nos. (+6375) 523-6502 (+6375) 523-6504
 In Urdaneta, stay at Lisland Rainforest Resort. Located at Km 182, San Vicente, Mc Arthur Highway, Urdaneta City, Pangasinan, it boasts of its rainforest-like ambience and swimming pool. For a detailed description of the resort, visit http://lisland.com.ph/ or call Tel No. (+6375) 568-2962 or send fax at. (+6375) 568-2938.
Filed under Tourism, Travel by The Pangasinan Blog.
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